Just south of Mahajunga, the Betsiboka River meets the sea, in an impressive estuarine delta. The water is stained red with topsoil washed off the nearby land, and recent studies have shown that the sedimentation rate is some 50-100 times faster than normal, as a result of deforestation and burning of vegetation. Nevertheless, the delta supports a wide variety of coastal species, including several extremely localised endemics.

We stayed in the Sofitel at Mahajunga, which was right on the beach with slightly faded cabins, but excellent pool and seafood. There was very little bird life around the hotel, but we did see Madagascar Kestrel here.

The boat trips on this tour were memorable, for a variety of reasons. This one had the faintly ridiculous situation where we had to climb into a small rowing boat, to be taken just five yards to the main boat. Clearly designed to make you feel ninety and decrepit….too old to get our feet wet….one of the disadvantages of being on an organised tour, I think.

We took the boat trip out to the Delta, and were soon successful in locating several Bernier's Ibis seen well, as well as the rather tricky Humblot's Heron. It took a little longer to find Bernier's Teal, and at first we had to be content with very poor sightings amongst distant mangroves. On the return trip, however, we were rewarded with excellent views of a small group standing on nearby mud, and then flying past at close range. There were plenty of Curlew Sandpipers, some Greater Sandplovers and Whimbrel and also a few Terek Sandpipers. Where were all the gulls and terns? We did see small numbers, but only a few Greater Crested Terns.

Bernier's Teal

Madagascar Bee-eater

Famadihana (bone-turning) ceremony

The world's shortest boat trip

Betsiboka Delta

Bernier's Ibis

Mahajunga